[Pc_Support] UPS AVR, appliances, activates?
patrick
pberry2 at cfl.rr.com
Sat Jun 10 18:49:28 EDT 2006
Jason Boxman wrote:
>I hadn't seen this before, but where I live now, apparently, my UPS' AVR kicks
>in when I'm running several appliances simultaneously that draw a lot of
>power. (The UPS makes a loud hum, which it only does under the above
>circumstance, so I am assuming it is AVR.)
>
>Is there any particular reason why this happens? Could it be the wiring? I
>imagine the washer and drier are on different circuits than my equipment
>upstairs.
>
>Thanks.
>
>
>
The UPS senses the AC voltage and kicks in at somewhere around 105 VAC!
Appliances with large motors and cooling equipment, refrigerators,
freezers, draw larger current upon start-up. The voltage sags from the
normal 115, 117,120, (I average 125VAC in Central Florida - but, I get
about 8 sags each day!).
My dozen UPS's click over, then back, giving a short alarm, on
average, about 8 times each day. Friday, we all lost power for an
hour. That is the strip mall, the huge car dealership , thirty other
local big businesses, and over 1,000 homes!
The sub-station lost a transformer, and, since it's replacement on
Friday, the power has stabilized!
I bought a new 'kill-a-watt' that has a computer in it, and
displays/records the voltages, equipment needs for items plugged into it
(up to 1500 watts) so I get some clues to all these events.
I discovered also, that weak circuit breakers can do imicro trips, due
to heat, and my older panel had two deficits.
One was that it was a Federal Pacific Stab-Lok unit, that is banned in
some 7 states as a total fire hazard. Secondly, the breakers were over
26 years old, and, some were welded shut internally, while others were
humming... and the breakers cost $37 for a 15 amp single pole, vs. $3.65
for a GE 15 or 20 amp! I would guess that FP is paying off the 31 Class
Action Lawsuits it lost in 31 states and territories.
I replaced the panel for $128 in parts, plus, about 4 hours of labor.
If you have no clue about AC power (I taught it in the Air Force), plus,
you aren't the OWNER of your home, you will need to pay a certified
electrical contractor for the work. Two to four hours is my guess for time.
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